The WVS Value Score is a 0-100 composite rating designed to answer one question: how well does this watch preserve your money over time? Here's exactly how it works, what each factor measures, and how to use it in your buying decision.
The luxury watch market lacks standardized metrics. Two watches at the same price can have radically different long-term costs: one might appreciate 20% over five years while the other loses 40%. Brand reputation, specifications, and market dynamics all interact in complex ways. The Value Score distills these factors into a single, comparable number so you can make informed decisions without years of market experience.
A score of 85+ indicates a watch that historically preserves or increases in value, has strong brand recognition, good specifications for its price, and is easy to buy and sell on the secondary market. A score of 60-84 represents solid watches that may depreciate moderately but offer good wearing value. Below 60 suggests watches where the purchase should be motivated by personal enjoyment rather than financial preservation.
The most heavily weighted factor because it directly determines how much owning the watch costs you. We compare the current secondary market price to the retail MSRP and analyze historical price trajectories for each reference. Watches that consistently trade above retail (like many Rolex sport models) score 90-100. Watches that trade 10-20% below retail score 60-70. Watches with steep 30%+ depreciation score below 50. This factor alone accounts for more than a third of the total score because, ultimately, value retention is what separates a luxury watch from a depreciating consumer good.
Measures the brand's overall desirability, recognition, and demand stability. This isn't subjective opinion — it's based on observable market data: secondary market volume, price stability across economic cycles, auction performance, and cultural penetration. Rolex leads at 98/100 thanks to unmatched global recognition and demand. Patek Philippe scores 97 for its position as the pinnacle of collecting. Newer or less established brands score lower because their demand patterns are less proven over time.
Evaluates what you're getting for your money in terms of horological substance: movement origin (in-house vs outsourced), accuracy certification level, water resistance, materials, and finishing. Critically, this is assessed relative to the watch's own category — a dive watch is compared to other dive watches, not to dress watches. A Grand Seiko with Spring Drive scores exceptionally well here because the technology is genuinely innovative, regardless of whether the brand scores lower on other factors.
How easily can you sell this watch at fair market value? We measure the volume of active listings across platforms, average days-to-sell, and the spread between asking and selling prices. High liquidity means you can exit your position quickly. A Rolex Submariner can sell within days; a niche brand complication might take months. This matters because an illiquid watch has a hidden cost — when you need to sell, you may accept a significant discount to find a buyer.
This factor counterbalances brand premium. It asks: setting aside the logo on the dial, how much watch are you getting for your money? A Tudor Black Bay with an in-house COSC-certified movement, 200m water resistance, and excellent finishing at $3,500 scores very well here. A fashion brand offering a basic ETA movement at $5,000 scores poorly. This factor ensures that objectively well-made, well-priced watches aren't penalized simply because their brand is less famous.
| # | Watch | Score | Retention | Brand | Specs | Liquidity | Price/Spec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rolex Oyster Perpetual 124300 | 91 | 100 | 98 | 67 | 95 | 80 |
| 2 | Rolex Oyster Perpetual 126000 | 91 | 100 | 98 | 66 | 95 | 84 |
| 3 | Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLNR | 90 | 100 | 98 | 71 | 95 | 68 |
| 4 | Rolex Submariner 124060 | 89 | 96 | 98 | 69 | 95 | 75 |
| 5 | Rolex Submariner 126610LN | 89 | 96 | 98 | 70 | 95 | 72 |
| 6 | Rolex Submariner 126610LV | 89 | 100 | 98 | 71 | 95 | 65 |
| 7 | Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLRO | 89 | 100 | 98 | 71 | 95 | 62 |
| 8 | Rolex GMT-Master II 126720VTNR | 89 | 100 | 98 | 71 | 95 | 61 |
| 9 | Rolex Datejust 126300 | 89 | 95 | 98 | 68 | 95 | 78 |
| 10 | Rolex Explorer 124270 | 89 | 95 | 98 | 67 | 95 | 81 |
Lower scores don't mean bad watches — they mean higher cost of ownership and less value preservation.
| Watch | Score | Retention | Brand | Own/Yr |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hublot Classic Fusion 542.NX.1171.RX | 64 | 51 | 70 | $493/yr |
| Piaget Altiplano G0A43120 | 64 | 50 | 74 | $1283/yr |
| Bell & Ross BR 05 BR05A-BL-ST/SST | 64 | 56 | 60 | $391/yr |
| Bell & Ross BR 03 BR0392-D-BL-ST/SST | 64 | 55 | 60 | $350/yr |
| Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 103672 | 63 | 52 | 65 | $793/yr |
The Value Score is a tool, not a verdict. A watch scoring 65 might be your perfect daily wearer — it just means you should expect some depreciation and factor that into your decision. Here's our framework:
85-100: Exceptional value preservation. These watches function almost like assets — your cost of ownership is minimal because the watch holds or increases in value. If budget allows, these are the safest choices financially.
70-84: Good value. Moderate depreciation means a reasonable annual cost. You're paying a small premium for the wearing experience, but the watch isn't a money pit. Most collectors find their sweet spot here — great watches that don't require the premiums of top-tier models.
Below 70: Buy for enjoyment, not investment. These watches may depreciate meaningfully, but they often offer excellent craftsmanship and unique designs. The key is to buy pre-owned at the depreciation floor rather than new at retail, which significantly reduces your actual loss.
Every watch page on WatchValueScore includes the full score breakdown with all five factors so you can see exactly where a watch's strengths and weaknesses lie. See the full methodology for complete technical details.