Iconic rectangular design inspired by WWI tanks
Dress watches prioritize elegance and slim profiles over technical specifications. Designed to slip under a shirt cuff, they typically feature minimal dials, thin cases, and leather straps. For the collector, a dress watch represents the art of restraint — where value lies in finishing quality rather than feature count.
Key metrics for dress watches are case thickness (ideally under 10mm), movement finishing visible through a display caseback, dial quality, and strap/buckle craftsmanship. Water resistance is typically lower (30-50m) since these watches aren't designed for sport use.
Dress watches are ideal for business formal, black tie, and occasions where subtlety is valued. They may feel under-dressed with casual wear. Many collectors own a dress watch alongside a sport watch to cover all social contexts.
Cartier watches are generally available at authorized dealers and Cartier boutiques. Unlike Rolex or Patek, there are no significant waitlists for most models. The Santos and Tank lines offer strong value at retail and are particularly popular among collectors who value design heritage over raw horological specification.
With 3 models in the collection, choosing the right Tank depends on your priorities. For the best long-term value, the WSTA0053 (Tank Française Medium Steel) leads with a Value Score of 78/100, reflecting superior value retention and market demand.
For the lowest cost of ownership, the WSTA0065 (Tank Must Large Steel) costs just $192/year to own — factoring in depreciation, servicing, and insurance. This makes it the most efficient choice for daily wearing pleasure.
The table below ranks every current model. Click any reference number for full analysis including price history, Value Score breakdown, and our personalized "Should I Buy?" calculator.